REVIEW—Linda Rogers Van Krugel

PINCHING ZWIEBACK, Made-up stories from the Darp, Mitchell Toews, At Bay Press, 2023, paper, pp 253 Review by Linda Rogers Van Krugel, Victoria, BC

On child birthdays we toss the kids in the air, make wishes and offer a “pinch to grow an inch.” Pinching Zwieback is a gathering of pinches as a young man, dough in the hands of powerful albeit diminished women that rises in the oven of cultural expectation to a better understanding of his place in the world beyond the kitchen of his creation.

That is the substance of Pinching Zwieback, rhymes with Steinbach, the town of Toews’ awakening. The linked stories in this premier collection from a senior writer describe the apostate Christian community he is growing into and out of now that the skin he was born in no longer fits. This was always true for the narrators born as outsiders in an outsider religion.

The earliest stories in the Bible tell us of exile and that is the status of boys born into an immigrant community, two degrees of separation from their historical selves. For this writer and others, new flesh pyjamas are neologisms that chafe their doctrines of faith. Belonging, at once the impetus for diaspora is the difficulty when it is achieved.

The Steinbach cohort learn in increments and their baby steps are measured in short stories, especially those written when expectation has been replaced by wisdom. Mitch Toews is a grandfather, his voice sifted through grizzle, the grey beard that bears witness to a lifetime of experience, and his coming-of-age collection is a double entendre, panis angelicus and little devils growing into the bodies of angels who challenge the status quo.

His stories, small anxieties, grow out of fear, children afraid of the dark, longing for the light. The transforming narrator has grown up through the three stages of man to a realisation that every effort to rise into a paradigm is the stuff of comedy because there is no perfect fit. Skin is woven by DNA and the declared DNA of Mennonite boys is kindness, pacifism, precepts often lost when religion becomes political, something, we suspect, Toews is noticing in the world his boys long to be part of, but on their own terms.

Pacifism, a precept of Mennonites often lost in the noise of struggling to fit outsiderhood, rises to assert itself in critical moments. This book is a double bun, doughy anecdotes from a spirited childhood coupled with the realisation that manhood is a more complex goal than just being strong, especially when strength translates into bullying, especially of women, the archetypal bakers of the author’s imagination.

One such moment arrives in the story where two friends are expected to fight because one commits an indiscretion by revealing a secret of vulnerability. The boys are expected to duke it out, neither of them comfortable with that resolution. A deeper language speaks in the half-hearted skirmish where blood knowledge informs them that friendship is deeper than difference and indiscretion is often more apocryphal storytelling than moral betrayal.

In “Fall From Grace,” a beautiful story of risk, we learn once again that moral challenges require more courage than mindless forages into physical danger, a temptation that leaves too many young men in graves and wheelchairs, and even more silenced young women subject to the violence menacingly referenced in the drowned silence of “Breezy.”

“Sunday school principles were discarded when the blood ran hot.” In the Steinbach world, a sensitive boy needed armour, regalia with spikes to deflect the shibboleths that kept him static within the social order, thou shalt nots pouring like molten proverb from the mouths of prophets and schoolteachers.

Mennonites were/are a hierarchy, men on top, some pigs better than others in the language of George Orwell. And sows are barely pigs, Adam’s rib, let us guess a penis, dedicated to stirring the pot, with the secret provision for rebellion when the kettle boils over.

In the story “The Grittiness of Mango Chiffon,” Matt describes his mother’s feminist rage against an elitist bully of a schoolteacher who would have her teenaged daughter expelled for wearing pants to stay warm in winter. “For this she used her secret weapon—a large English vocabulary. A second lexical ordnance to complement her mastery of Low German.” It is a small rebellion, albeit over the phone not person to person, but it is women talking, the beginning of revolution against the norms that constrain.

It is control of language that determines cultural survival. That is what so many colonial societies are learning as they search for elders and text to explain themselves. Toews’ struggle between the desire to know himself and find himself is the key to comedy and pathos in his quest for definition. Perhaps this is an easier task for the women who stick to making bread and remember the recipes.

Making bread is women’s work in patriarchal society and it takes a voyeur like Toews to notice strength in forearms that pinch and shape dough and the character of children with muscle memory.

We come out of these stories with sympathy for both sides, but, in the end, bread wins and by the time the boys grow up, the women are in positions of power their grandmothers never dreamed of.

The arc of every story in this collection is a micro-battle against expectation, the status quo, as the three main recurrent boy/man characters—Matt, Lenny, and Diedrich—struggle to understand their legacy, the being of their Mennonite heritage, in the context of a language they barely understand (and kindly provide a glossary) and a hierarchy that makes them less, so that in some senses they are women, or are at least aware of the life sentences handed down at birth.

Just as the three male protagonists are uncomfortable with their ancestral language and the inference that it reduces their status in a patriarchal culture, the reader experiences dis/gravitas as Low German is sprinkled like itching powder in the text. Pain is the father of humour and humour is relief.

I remember being invited to dinner at a forest haven, populated by privileged tourists, all of whom spoke High German, in the BC Interior. Our host, of Mennonite extraction, warned us not to let on that he understood the language. “The minute I respond in my dialect, they will treat us badly,” he said. I had to wonder what we were doing there, reliving pain even a diaspora could not cure.

Only writing can do that, my friend is discovering.

“…he still felt the old resentment, as stinging as tears, being in this place and reliving the old thoughts again.” So what is Toews doing here, outing himself by juggling unfamiliar speech, the language of his ancestors? Just as it is for the mothers and guardian aunts who care for Matt, Lenny, and Diedrich, everything depends on the energy of conviction. The outrider needs to signal danger otherwise we all run off the cliff into the valley of discrimination.

Baseball is the metaphor in this coming of great age book. As we sit back and watch the game: hits, runs, errors, we understand both rules and surprises, and girls can play too. In “The Narrowing” a story about facing fear, Matt, now a grandfather, urges his grandson Tim to confront the knife’s edge of living dangerously, playing chicken with a train. This is a man playing a boy’s game and, although the boy wins by surviving, the grandfather is left to confront his hubris and the greater wisdom of his daughter.

In the final story “In the Dim Light Beyond the Fence,” Matt’s death experience lovingly recalled in the context of baseball, the Mennonite game of recognition is played out: “…the past shunnings, social stigmatization. Institutional misogyny. All of it, the good and the bad. Dad was so proud of the pacifism, though that was tainted in some ways, but so what. They tried.” Life is reaching for the light, which never falters even as the human characters flicker and fade.

As these stories rise in Toews’ proverbial oven they grow away from the fire of creation, the same fire that has tempted and driven notable female voices from the Mennonite community. This time it is men talking. Both sides now.

Pinching Zwieback Compendium

Cover shot of a rooster in a day coat for the book Pinching Zwieback (At Bay Press, 2023)

JUST FOR FUN, I fed every review and comment about my collection of short stories, Pinching Zwieback into the free ChatGPT kitchen and asked ol’ Chatty Cathy to make me an omelette. Here’s what was served. . .

First of all, WHO AM I?

“Author Mitchell Toews is a Canadian writer whose work has been nominated for the McClelland & Stewart Journey Prize (Pulp Literature, 2025) and four Pushcart Prizes.

His debut collection, Pinching Zwieback (At Bay Press, 2023), explores fairness, faith, and voice in rural and urban communities. His fiction has appeared in more than fifty journals across North America and Europe and a novel is forthcoming.

Mitch and his wife Janice live in a 75-year-old cottage in the Canadian Boreal forest, just north of the 50th parallel.

Here are the actual reviews or links to them: https://mitchellaneous.com/2023/10/11/early-praise-for-pinching-zwieback-2/

See the book, Pinching Zwieback on the At Bay Press website here: https://atbaypress.com/books/detail/pinching-zwieback

And here is how ChatGPT summarized the reviews and commentary:

Pinching Zwieback – Consolidated Critical Reception Overview

Notable Reviewer Highlights and Quotes

  • Armin Wiebe: “Mitchell Toews’ stories range from Tom Sawyer-like tales of boyhood squabbles to the heartbreak of family dysfunction… From 1874 Russia to 21st-century Manitoba and British Columbia, Mitchell Toews’ linked stories present a boisterous and poignant family saga unlike any other in Mennonite literature.”
  • Donna Besel: “Mitch’s debut collection pays homage to Mennonite language, food, history, and culture… but he does not shy away from sharp insights into the limitations of a closed and controlled way of life.”
  • Ralph Friesen: “Mitch Toews speaks from the margins of small-town society, claiming a space for the underdog and the undervalued… His rare talent touches your heart and is funny, too.”
  • Linda Rogers Van Krugel: “The linked stories describe the apostate Christian community he is growing into and out of… narrators born as outsiders in an outsider religion.”
  • Alanna Rusnak: “Moves like a tide through visceral daily experiences—quintessentially Canadian, some heart-wrenching, each powerfully evocative.”
  • Leslie Wakeman: “His stories allow us to hold space for challenging our notions on life.”
  • Rachael Friesen: “…snapshots from each character and how the stories flow from one generation to the next were fantastic.”
  • Zilla Jones: “Mitchell Toews’ stories ask universal questions about belonging, conforming, and dissenting… ostensibly Mennonite, but the themes… are universal.”

General Reception

  • Pinching Zwieback has been widely praised for its authentic depiction of Prairie Mennonite life, skillfully blending humour, moral reflection, and cultural specificity.
  • Reviewers note that while stories often begin with playful or whimsical setups, they carry significant emotional, moral, or physical stakes, as seen in Swimming in the Bazavluk (near-drowning) and Fall From Grace.
  • Toews’ prose is consistently praised for its precision, clarity, and warmth, making the collection accessible while engaging deeply with culture, heritage, and interpersonal dynamics.
  • The collection has received repeated coverage from sources including the Winnipeg Free Press, McNally Robinson, Anabaptist World, Literary Heist, and Blank Spaces Magazine, as well as multiple interviews and discussions with the author, demonstrating broad literary and cultural recognition.

Key Themes Highlighted by Reviewers

  1. Coming-of-Age and Moral Growth
    • Stories frequently focus on adolescents navigating ethical dilemmas, social pressures, and family dynamics.
    • Humour and adventure are balanced with serious lessons about resilience, responsibility, and morality.
  2. Cultural Heritage and Mennonite Identity
    • The collection emphasizes Mennonite traditions, work ethic, and community norms.
    • Historical and ancestral connections, e.g., settings in Ukraine or Russia (Swimming in the Bazavluk), link characters to generational memory.
    • Commentary by Armin Wiebe and others notes Toews’ ability to explore aspects of Mennonite life that other writers have largely avoided: class, racism, small-town hypocrisy, and intergenerational conflict.
  3. Humour and Emotional Range
    • Stories oscillate between the hilarious and the tragic, reflecting real-life complexity.
    • Humour illuminates character insight and cultural observation rather than serving purely as comic relief.
  4. Community, Belonging, and Individuality
    • Stories examine social pressures, conformity, and dissent, as well as family and community relationships.
    • Zilla Jones emphasizes that although the stories are ostensibly Mennonite, themes of belonging vs. alienation and individual vs. family are universal.
    • Ralph Friesen and Leslie Wakeman note Toews’ attention to marginalized voices and underdogs, highlighting emotional stakes alongside comedic elements.
  5. Generational and Interconnected Storytelling
    • Multiple reviewers, including Rachael Friesen, highlight the linked generational narratives that follow characters across decades and locations, from 19th-century Russia to contemporary Manitoba and British Columbia.
    • Armin Wiebe observes that recurring family threads (e.g., the Zehen family and a family bakery) allow stories to explore love, rivalry, moral tests, and both physical and emotional peril.
  6. Universality and Canadian Identity
    • Alanna Rusnak describes the stories as “quintessentially Canadian,” moving through daily experiences, with heart-wrenching and evocative moments.
    • Linda Rogers emphasizes Toews’ exploration of outsider identity and personal transformation, connecting the Prairie Mennonite context to broader human experience.

Overall Critical Consensus

Strengths

  • Exceptional authenticity and cultural fidelity, capturing Prairie Mennonite life across multiple generations and geographies.
  • Skillful blending of humor, moral reflection, and narrative tension, often with life-or-death stakes.
  • Character-driven stories that resonate emotionally while reflecting ethical and social dilemmas.
  • Universality: While rooted in Mennonite experience, stories explore human themes of belonging, identity, and resilience.

Summary

Pinching Zwieback is celebrated as a groundbreaking and multifaceted collection in contemporary Mennonite and Canadian literature. The stories balance playfulness, peril, humor, and moral insight, while creating a linked generational tapestry from 19th-century Russia to present-day Canadian Prairies. Critical and public reception highlights Toews’ literary craft, emotional depth, and cultural insight, establishing the collection as both an entertaining and thought-provoking work.

Juuuuust puttin this here for now

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Am/Want to Be/Will Be

I’ve been working a lot lately on what kind of writer I am . . . what kind I want to be . . . and what I will eventually be. There are countless English language journals, anthologies, bookshops and libraries in the world, and that translates into I-have-no-idea-how-many fiction readers. Regardless of the actual number, I know and accept that I can’t be the writer for all of them.

What I can be is a writer who is consistent in certain core ways and is comfortable with that. Maybe most important in these fractious times is to be aware of what my writing constitutes and what it does not.

Self-analysis begins with “self,” so here is a scratch-coat version of the literary and authorial elements I believe are most important to me. For context, I’m nearly seventy years old, a prairie resident who began my fiction practice in 2016, after 20 years in advertising and marketing. I have one published book, “Pinching Zwieback” (At Bay Press, 2023). I’ve published 142 individual stories (including excerpts, interviews, poems, and essays) and have a novel forthcoming in the spring of 2026. With any luck, I’ll also have another book out sometime after that.

That’s a lot of words, so I BETTER know what I am and what I’m not.

Yep List

√ Prioritize quality of prose and storytelling
√ Commitment to craft over cachet
√ Focus on regional or rural sensibility—without being provincial
Heartful, deeply human prose with unshowy language
√ Value meaning and emotional depth over literary fashion

“Be political—but to be heard, be quiet and mature in a noisy era.”

√ Write place-based prose with resonance
√ Be humble and consistent (AVOID pomposity!)
√ Hold to empathic realism and clarity
√ Recognize that emotional intelligence, rural ethics, and cultural humility are the ethos of your readers
Moral nuance and intergenerational narratives are central traits in the writing

“Emotion must be earned through character, situation, and moral complication.”

√ Embrace moral ambiguity—we all have it
Spiritual content need not be religious content (no sermons)
√ Build on strong character underpinnings and clean prose with a steady, but constant, moral arc
√ Be attuned to displacement, contradiction, and the need to belong
Interrogate beliefs and also what people “get away with,” and at what cost?

“Always be curious and honest about fairness, decency, and failure in the story.”

Nope List

× No authorial moralizing
× Reader catharsis is never the primary objective—no melodrama or superheroes
× No authorial identity—tell the story and let social class, rurality, and age arise through the fiction
× Write lean but never at the expense of the emotional arc or the distinctiveness of place
× Create quiet stories, but don’t be afraid to “make the quiet sharp”

“As soon as it’s read, it ceases to be your story—it belongs to each individual reader.”

× No apologies (Sin Qua Non)

Photo by Eric Peters

A Barefoot List

The Real (Baked) Goods

Here it is, from Barkman Avenue to your countertop. Bake with joy.

Zwieback Recipe

From Steinbach Bakery Ltd., kitchen-tested by Doug Toews, Wpg., Man.

20 Zwieback buns.

NOTE: Much better results for frozen/reheated buns when produced with canola
oil. The original recipe calls for 1/3 – 1/2 cup butter or lard for buns you
plan to eat fresh and not freeze.

Ingredients.

-1/2 cup water for proofing the yeast. (Optional: use leftover potato-boiling
water. The bakery did not use that but it is a traditional way to make
Zwieback. Why waste water?)

  • 2 cups whole milk
  • 1/4 cup canola oil
  • melted butter for brushing the buns after baking
  • 1-1/2 to 2 tsp. salt (to taste)
  • 3 to 4 tbsp. sugar (to taste)
  • 1 tbsp yeast – 2 packages
  • 4-1/2 – 5-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
    Preparation.

Mix 3 cups of flour with the yeast and then add the water and other
ingredients. Mix well. Then work in the rest of the flour as needed and knead
for 10 minutes. A slow first rise of 1 to 1-1/4 hours will give a better-
tasting bun. Punch down and let rest 10 minutes. Pinch into ball and form the
buns. A little water (just a dab) on top of the base helps keep the top on.
Cover with heavy plastic or wax paper (helps keep the tops on) and let rise
for 20 to 30 minutes. Bake at 375 for 20 to 25 minutes. Centre rack or
slightly above centre to prevent the bun bottoms from being overdone.
Optionally brush or rub with butter when just cool enough to handle.

Ambition

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We’re All Just “temporarily embarrassed millionaires…”

Originally posted on a friend’s Facebook page. The italic comments are my subsequent additions. (Cooler heads prevailing? Maybe…)

Who looks out for low-income Canadians? The lawmakers? Okay, but aren’t they mostly wealthy individuals, some for many generations?

If not most, then many. After all, their salary, benefits, celebrity, and pension are enough to be financially attractive to most Canadians.

Aren’t many others “first-generation wealthy” who might see their elected membership in Parliament (and other institutions) as a handy, effective means of wealth generation and preservation? A few might be from lower income cohorts but far more (a statistical majority, in fact) are likely to be extremely rich; elites who may take the attitude that, “if the poor don’t like it, they should have made more money!”

“Extremely rich” is hyperbolic, but compared to those of average income and debt loads (who lack the opportunity to earn income after their public political life), many elected officials are financially well-off.

All those elected officials who complain that government pharmaceutical programs would be “socialist” activities are likely wealthy (and so do not fully appreciate the burden of pharmaceutical costs), likely don’t see “the poor” as a significant voting block, and are probably recipients of MP (or other gov’t position) pharma, dental, travel, etc. care plans.

The “Falk in our stars” are those who, as members of Parliament or Provincial Legislatures have a Pharma plan as part of their government pay package. If it disgusts him to the point of public displays of angry bluster, (and if I could) I would gladly take over TF’s coverage. I won’t vote for him as a result (that transaction would be illegal), but I will feel better about his election rhetoric and he will be able to point to his noble intent and superior moral character.

A better remedy than my angry rant might be to go back and read “The Grapes of Wrath” again.

In Praise of Contradictory Characters

Humans evolved as viable beings in part through our ability to maximize our senses as a whole. This is unlike many other creatures with specialized areas of excellence: a hummingbird’s flight or an eagle’s vision, for example. We homo sapiens have not been able to supercharge any single sense but have created a life-giving skill of summarization. We’ve been able to condense all of our senses to create almost instantaneous and frequently accurate compound impressions that let us make fast decisions.

When walking in the woods, the leaf-muffled sound of something above makes us instinctively glance in that direction, lower our centre of gravity, and rely on our unconsciously gathered, short-term knowledge of our immediate surroundings to guide us and avoid a falling branch.

These intuitive, “always on” survival instincts are given to us before we are born; these powers are in our genes and the DNA that plots our growth.

We combine all available data to create almost prescient responses to situations and we do it thousands of times each day, even while we sleep. Each second, we are automatically collecting, sorting, saving, discarding and responding—or preparing a response—to the myriad sources of input we insatiably seek to acquire.

Relentless and ruthless, we categorize and make assumptions as a necessary by-product of our rapid-fire process of collect-examine-act. It works! 750-pound sabre tooth felines are extinct but 122-pound soccer moms wearing spandex leggings and hot pink tank tops jog with their stroller-strapped infants through modern society’s statistical valley of death: roadside urban environments.

We depend on our ability to rapidly rate & discern danger or safe haven. This savant-like skill has made our population grow to the point where we have become our own worst enemies.

This island of genius, summarization, extends to our art as well. In fiction, we create characters whose true selves are, to the observant reader, readily visible. Seemingly stereotypical. However, our “bad guys” may at first appear as great dads, loving boyfriends, fearless advocates of the downtrodden, or otherwise trustworthy sorts. And so they may be, until they, like the tree branch, suddenly SNAP!

Like we somehow knew they would.

Bait and switch. Hidden foreshadowing. On Star Trek, the never-seen-before crew member who is featured in the opening segment of the show as a loyal but inconsequential player sets off alarms in our sensory array. We KNOW this character is shown for a reason. This herring with a sunburn is going to: a.) die horribly, b.) be transformed into some unstoppable alien predator, or c.) shapeshift into a lookalike for Kirk, Spock, Bones, or Scotty. The music, dialogue, the point in the story arc, and a dozen other micro telltales (a signature Nimoy eyebrow lift perhaps) give us a sense of certainty that all that remains to discover is the skill with which this yarn is unravelled. We grab a bowl of sugary cereal at the scene break and hurry back when the familiar “back-from-commercial” music entreats us to return and see if maybe there could be some knot in the plot we did not foresee.

Generally, the only way to fool us and our all-seeing assessment tools is to introduce some hitherto unknown, unknowable factor: a force field, a distant planet’s illogical cultural more, or a character flaw for which NO CLUES were ever offered. Shame, screenwriter, for giving us insufficient data. How un-Hitchcock of you! How Bradburyless!

But wait! Is there shame in this lack of situational prep work by the author? Must all characters wear either the white stetson or the black? Is it binary? God and the Devil? Must we be drawn always into our heroic and melodramatic roots over and over again? Can’t there be confusion? Contradiction?

#

In my “reads like a novel” collection of short stories, “Pinching Zwieback” (At Bay Press, 2023) there is one recurrent character who is, one could say, clearly contradictory. In her first appearance, “Justy” is a stoic, “old-soul” kind of young mom, whose love and earnest devotion for her family is both beautiful and beguiling. When I read this story to audiences, I can feel her charm and purity making them love her and want her to succeed. So do I.

In the next installment, about mid-way through the collection, we meet her again but this time Justy is the world-worn mother of teenagers in a fish-bowl small town where every means of escape has proven futile. This older Justy smokes cigarettes, drinks liquor, and otherwise spits on male Mennonite overreach into her life. The Grittiness of Mango Chiffon showcases her willingness to confront her male antagonist with laser beam accuracy and we find in her a beacon of hope for the lowly. (A group in which she finds herself, despite her powerful character.) Echoing a figurative page from another story in the book (Breezy) she reminds us of the message found in one of my favourite short stories: “Forgive the weak for they are always fighting.” —Layne Coleman wrote in “Tony Nappo Ruined My Life” (Exile V45.2, in which this story was named the $15K winner of the “Best Canadian Short Fiction.”)

Justy’s final appearance shows us the caustic effect of sorrow, self-pity, and surrender. Human frailty is the currency and Justy is no more the bright, heroic young mother willing to take on any burden and defy all odds against her. Nor is she still the cynical but bold and unyielding knight Perceval; older but still focused on her Holy Grail, though we might see in her some flickering signs of weariness and a quiet desire to set herself apart from the constant meanness.

At the end of Grittiness, we are left imagining her in growing despair, abiding a life among the paltry and the unbecoming. She remains unseen until at last, in Rommdriewe, she reappears finally and is forever seen as broken. The defilement of her earlier selves is complete.

The message in Rommdriewe is, as my writer friend Brian Hughes of Winnipeg said during a critique session of this story, “to not hate the poisoned victim—rather, hate the poison.” Justy is cruelly denied this kindness. In Rommdriewe, her son (now a man) and his aging father come to terms with their fractious relationship. Justy is left outside of this treaty, with only the smallest of hopes left for her to save herself and become the pure girl-woman-truth seeker she once was.

Justy is the undisputed hero of the book and yet she is denied heroic status. She becomes the sin-eater for the others, sacrificing herself to show them how honour and defiance (Trotz) and courage can be used to survive. Even as she slips over the icy edge with little Matt at the end of Fast and Steep, we know we’ll not see her again except as the defamed sin-eater who subtly and without troubling us, gives her soul in exchange for others.

In the end, maybe Justy is the opposite of a contradictory character. Perhaps, somehow, she becomes the hero made perfect, without seeking perfection. Justy is no faux male Jesus vainly declaring anguish while knowing his everlasting fate is secure. No, Justy’s stoicism is as pure and giving as her motherly love and her endlessly heroic trotzijch mettle in the face of all adversity against her loved ones.

In this river of love flowing uphill, Justy remains true to her innermost self and is in this way the ultimate contradictory character.